In this week’s Telegraph, I wrote about the return of bag in box wines. The new ones aren’t turning up en masse on supermarket shelves, and they’re not filled with soupy plonk. They’re being made bespoke for fantastic restaurants such as St John in Farringdon, or brought in by small, alternative importers such as Red Squirrel Wines. They contain seriously good juice and it’s unboring too – Red Squirrel has a zweigelt and a grüner veltliner, if you please. I love bag in box, especially when it becomes a fixture in the holiday kitchen. Though maybe try not to be like the English couple a reader emailed me about. Apparently they bought a big five litre number and then proceeded to hike it around dinner parties for an entire summer. Yes, the same box. I like to think of everyone’s astonishment as it went back into the boot of the car at the end of an evening.
Stop press – I’ve just been tipped off about the bag in boxes sold by wheninromewine.co.uk. I’ve not had chance to try them yet but if anyone out there has – let me know what you think.
This week’s top buy: St John 3 litre bag-in-boxes of red, white and rosé, £31 each. I wrote these bag in boxes up in the paper and was afterwards asked by a friend if they really are any good. Yes! Of course they are. He wanted to know which is the best and I told him to plump for the red, a juicy blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah from the Languedoc. It’s proper, artisan French wine, but easygoing as you like. “Just one glass” or, indeed, “Just one more glass” just got a whole lot easier. Wish I had one sitting here right now.
Available over the counter from all three of the London restaurants, Smithfield, Spitalfields, Maltby as well as from the Bakery in Druid Street on Saturday and Sunday daytime. The St John bag in boxes can also be bought online at http://www.stjohnwines.co.uk. There is a minimum order of three BIBs and delivery within the UK is free. They can also be taken in a mixed case with bottles.